Sacred Journeys - Ireland
Land of Myth and Mystery – A Pilgrimage into the
Heart of Sacred Ireland
September 13 – 24, 2010
Tour Leaders: Phil Cousineau is a writer, teacher,
independent scholar, documentary filmmaker, travel
leader, storyteller and author of many books including
the national best-seller The Art of Pilgrimage.
Currently, he is host of the much-praised 10 part “inner
travel” series, Global Spirit on Link TV. Read
more about Phil Cousineau on our
About Your Tour
Leader page.
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Tour Description
Join author Phil Cousineau as he leads you on a pilgrimage through
the enchanted “Isle of Eire” where the age of myth, mystery and magic live on.
Captivating Ireland is still a land where mysteries are etched as runes within
ruins. Treading the Irish mythic past today, we encounter a rich culture that
embodies the preservation of its magnificent oral tradition, ancient rituals,
romantic poetry and literature, and vibrant folklore and music. Meander along
scenic roads that hug the rugged Irish western shore, roam about the undulating
countryside and rocky plains, ferry to the alluring Aran Islands, and journey
deep into the very heart of Ireland.
Our journey will include visits to the towering Cliffs of Moher, the
limestone moonscape of the Burren, Yeat’s Tower, Kilfenora,
the City of High Crosses, the ancient grave passage of Newgrange,
the literary shrines of Dublin, and more! Together, we will walk in the
footsteps of 15 centuries of pilgrims as we climb Croagh Patrick, the
holiest place in Ireland, and explore the ruins of Clonmacnoise, the
abbey where the Irish monks “helped save civilization”, in the words of Thomas
Cahill. Stroll through charming seaside villages and quaint country towns where
the traditions of old are still very alive today. Gaze at stunning panoramas
from soaring cliffs, discover ancient ruins and stone structures, journey to
sacred sites of pilgrimage, and return to a time of romance and enchantment with
visits to majestic castles. Discover the vibrant culture of the Irish with
traditional entertainment, music and fun-filled evening pub crawls. Indulge your
creativity with daily journaling, sketching, poetry readings and traditional
folktales, and enjoy the peace and serenity of beautiful settings for personal
reflection.
Our journey to what was once called the “Island of Saints and Scholars, Poets
and Priests”, will combine many of the myriad elements such as storytelling,
music, landscape and fierce independence that have made this Emerald Isle one of
the most beloved countries in the world. This will also be a journey of
questions: Where does the myth of leprechauns come from? Who was Molly McGuire?
What role does the pub play in Irish Life? What was the Irish Famine and how did
it influence the Great Irish Immigration to the North America? Why do the Irish
have such a reputation for being entertaining storytellers, poets and musicians?
Tour leader, Phil Cousineau will discuss all these themes and more during
enlightening daily lectures, group discussions, and informative talks so that
the many myths and secrets of Ireland can be revealed. We will also enjoy
special guest appearances along the way with one of Ireland’s leading
authorities on Irish music, P.J. Curtis as well as leading expert on
Celtic Mysticism, Dara Molloy, and have the opportunity to meet other
wonderfully entertaining and knowledgeable locals to fully enrich our journey.
Ireland is truly a land that reaches deep into your heart, lifts your spirits
and stirs you to your very core. So come join your new “Anam Cara” (Celtic for
Soul Friends) and discover this fascinating island which entices all the senses
and leaves you craving more on a journey that combines an exploration of Irish
mythology, poetry, literature, history and mysticism as well as taking a look at
the rapid changes in the new aspects of the Celtic Tiger. This pilgrimage is
designed to be a meaningful, spirit renewing experience to nurture your
creativity and help you understand the myriad aspects of one of the most
inexhaustibly interesting cultures in the world.
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Tour Leaders
Phil Cousineau is a writer, teacher, editor, independent scholar, documentary filmmaker, travel leader, and storyteller. His life-long fascination with art, literature, and history of culture has taken him on many journeys around the world. He lectures frequently on a wide range of topics-from mythology, film, and writing, to beauty, creativity, travel, and sports. He has published 25 non fiction books and has 15 scriptwriting credits to his name. Currently he is the host of the much-praised 10 part “inner travel” series, Global Spirit, on LINK TV, which is also streamed on the web at www.globalspirit.tv.
"The discussions on LINK-TV's 'Global Spirit' series
are sorely needed in this dispirited and disenchanted
world. In many ways it is more important than journalism
today." Bill Moyers
Phil was born at an army hospital in Columbia, South
Carolina and grew up just outside Detroit, Michigan,
once known as “the Paris of the Midwest” as he’s fond of
saying. While moonlighting in a steel factory, he
studied journalism at the University of Detroit. Before
turning to writing books and films full-time,
Cousineau’s peripatetic career included stints as a
sportswriter, playing semi-professional basketball in
Europe, harvesting date trees on an Israeli kibbutz,
painting 44 Victorian houses in San Francisco, and
teaching screenwriting at the American Film Institute.
Books
Phil's books include his international bestseller,
The Art of Pilgrimage: The Seeker's Guide to Making
Travel, which has been translated into ten
languages; The Book of Roads: Stories from
Michigan; the recently released The
Meaning of Tea; Stoking the Creative
Fires: Nine Ways to Rekindle Passion and Imagination;
The Olympic Odyssey, which was selected by
the US Olympic Committee as a gift to the athletes at
the 2004 Athens, Greece Olympics; Soul: An
Archaeology: Readings from Socrates to Ray Charles;
The Soul of the World: A Modern Book of Hours;
and The Hero’s Journey: Joseph Campbell on His
Life and Work. Cousineau also worked with the
drummer John Densmore on his bestselling autobiography,
Riders on the Storm: My Life with Jim Morrison and
the Doors. Cousineau is also a contributor to
more than 40 other books.
Films
Phil’s screenwriting credits in documentary films, which
have won more than 25 international awards, include:
A Seat at the Table; Ecological Design:
Inventing the Future; Wayfinders: A Pacific Odyssey;
Humble Serpent: The Life of Reuben Snake; Wiping
the Tears of Seven Generations; Eritrea: March to
Freedom; The Presence of the Goddess; The Hero’s
Journey: The World of Joseph Campbell; and the
1991 Academy Award nominated Forever Activists:
Stories from the Abraham Lincoln Brigade. An
expert on mythology and film and the “hero journey”
structure of screenplays, Cousineau also consults on
many types of films and projects.
Appearances
Cousineau has been the keynote speaker at major
conferences as diverse as the Ansel Adams Centennial
Celebration in Yosemite National Park and The European
Unitarian Universalist’s Fall Retreat in the
Netherlands. He has been invited to lecture at
distinguished venues including the University of
California, Berkeley, UCLA, Stanford University,
Pacifica Graduate Institute, the C.G. Jung Institute of
Chicago, the Swedenbourg Library, Syracuse University,
Bard College, and the University of Tennessee.
He has collaborated and appeared with many of the great
thinkers and philosophers of our time including mentors,
Joseph Campbell and Huston Smith, John O’Donohue, Karen
Armstrong, Robert Thurman, Robert A. Johnson, James
Hillman, Brian Swimme, Robert Bly, Brother David Steindl
Rast, Marija Gimbutas, Angeles Arrien and others. He
enjoys collaborating with musicians and artists such as,
David Darling, R.B. Morris, and Gregg Chadwick.
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Tour Summary
Day 1 Arrive in Shannon; Bunratty; Ballyvaughan
Day 2 Ballyvaughan; Poulnabrone Dolmen; Kilfenora; Liscannor; Doolin
Day 3 Ballyvauhan; Gort; Kinvarra; Coole Park
Day 4 Aran Islands
Day 5 Aran Islands; Clifden
Day 6 Connemara; Roundstone Village; Ballyconneely; Clifden
Day 7 Westport; Achill Island; Clifden
Day 8 Galway City
Day 9 Shannonbridge; Dublin
Day 10 Dublin; Newgrange
Day 11 Dublin
Day 12 Depart Dublin
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Detailed Itinerary
Day 1 Mon, Sep 13: Arrive in Shannon; Bunratty; Ballyvaughan (D)
Arrive in the early morning at Shannon Airport in the beautiful “Emerald Isle”,
a country rich in heritage and culture with a history dating back as far as 6000
BC. Meet with the local driver/guide and transfer to Bunratty, a small
rural village settled by the Vikings in 970 AD, for an optional breakfast at
Dirty Nellie’s Pub. Enjoy some free time in the village for a little
introductory shopping and then transfer later in the morning to bustling
Ennis. Enjoy more free time to roam about Ireland’s 6th largest town. After
a stop for lunch at the Poet’s Corner at the Old Ground Hotel, where poet and
dramatist, William Butler Yeats and dramatist and folklorist, Lady Augusta
Gregory used to dine, we depart Ennis for the spectacular Cliffs of Moher.
The cliffs, which rise to a height of 214 metres above the Atlantic Ocean, boast
one of Ireland’s most impressive views, and on a clear day, one can see as far
as the Aran Islands. Later, we transfer to the charming small harbour village of
Ballyvaughan, which means the “Town of the Beacháin (Behan) Family” or
“Townland of the Mushrooms” to settle into our hotel and freshen up for the
evening. Enjoy a hearty Irish Welcome Dinner with your fellow pilgrims
and travellers and if you’re feeling up to it, join us on an evening out for
traditional music at the 100 year old Monk’s Pub, just a short country walk
outside of town.
(Overnight in Ballyvaughan at the Hylands Burren Hotel)
Day 2 Tue, Sep 14: Ballyvaughan; Poulnabrone Dolmen; Kilfenora; Liscannor;
Doolin (B, D)
After a full Irish breakfast at our hotel we gather for a morning lecture
where Phil will discuss “The Seven Stages of Sacred Travel”, based on his
worldwide bestseller The Art of Pilgrimage. Later in the morning we head out to
the lunar landscapes of The Burren, meaning “Great Rock”, an area
abounding with historical and archaeological sites. Here we visit the
Poulnabrone Dolmen, meaning “hole of sorrows”, a megalithic portal tomb
dating back to the Neolithic period. We then continue on to Kilfenora,
meaning “The Church of the Fertile Hillside” or “The Church of the White Brow”,
for a quick lunch break in town. Being the site of an important early monastic
settlement, the town was also given the name, “The City of High Crosses”,
referring to the high crosses surrounding the Cathedral. After lunch we make our
way to the ancient pilgrimage site of St. Brigid’s Well, in picturesque
Liscannor. Here we will take time for our daily writing and journaling
exercise on “Crossing the Threshold”. Later, we continue on our scenic drive to
the seaside village of Doolin where we will enjoy a delicious meal and
entertainment at Gus O’Connor’s Pub, home of the legendary Russell Brothers.
During the 1960s Doolin was one of the most beloved and influential centres for
music in the Western world and O’Connor’s became the watchword for the revival
of Irish music.
(Overnight in Ballyvaughan at the Hylands Burren Hotel)
Day 3 Wed, Sep 15: Ballyvauhan; Gort; Kinvara; Coole Park (B)
This morning, we head to Gort and visit Thoor Ballylee Tower, the
home of W.B. Yeats, for a poetry reading at the top of the tower. The tower
house, a former 16th Century Norman castle built by the De Burca family, was
purchased in 1916 and lovingly restored by Yeats to be enjoyed as a family
summer home as it was not far from his lifelong friend, Lady Augusta Gregory.
The home was a great source of inspiration for Yeats. He once wrote to a friend
professing his joy and love of this beautiful place, “And out of doors, with the
hawthorn all in blossom all along the river banks, everything is so beautiful
that to go elsewhere is to leave beauty behind”. We then make our way for a
quick stop in the lovely sea port village of Kinvara. Stroll through the
quaint village, admire Dunguaire Castle and enjoy lunch while taking in the
breathtaking views over the harbour.
Later, we continue on to Coole Park, the home of Lady Gregory, an
impressive monument to her incalculable and important collection of Irish myths
and legends, to immerse ourselves in the magic and serenity of the area. Yeats,
George Bernard Shaw, John Millington Synge, and Sean O' Casey all came to
experience its magic. They and many others carved their initials on the
Autograph Tree, an old beech still standing today. Although the house no longer
stands, one can still appreciate the surroundings that originally drew so many
here. The park, which contains extensive woodlands, a series of turloughs,
rivers, bare limestone and Coole Lake, is now a 1000 acre Nature Reserve
protected by the National Parks and Wildlife Service. In the early evening we
return to Ballyvaughan to rest up from the day and freshen up before our
lecture and live demonstration on “Traditional Irish Music and Concert”
with special guest, author and musicologist, P.J. Curtis, as well as
other accompanying musicians.
(Overnight in Ballyvaughan at the Hylands Burren Hotel)
Day 4 Thu, Sep 16: Aran Islands (B, D)
We arise for an early breakfast, bid farewell to County Clare and the Burren,
and depart on the ferry for a stunning journey across Galway Bay to the
melancholic splendour of the Aran Islands to arrive at Inishmore, the
largest of the 3 islands. The islands, unique in their geology and archaeology,
are rich in language, culture and heritage and the spirit of Gaelic Ireland can
be sensed from shore to peak. Upon arrival we will have some time to visit the
Kilronan Visitor Centre and enjoy a late morning walk along the docks to check
out the traditional craft and weaving shops where you will find great treasures
and souvenirs such as the original woollen Aran sweaters and sculptures made of
Irish peat.
At noon we delight in an overland tour of the Islands taking in the impressive
Iron Age fort of Dun Aengus, perched on the edge of 100 metre cliffs and
known as “the most magnificent barbaric monument in Europe”, and then to the
site of the 11th Century Seven Chapels, which for centuries, was one of
the biggest monastic foundations and centres of pilgrimage along the west coast
of Ireland. At the end of our tour we check into the Kilmurvey House and then
enjoy the rest of the day at your leisure to explore the island independently.
In the evening we gather once again for a traditional dinner at Ostan Aran, a
traditional Aran Fisherman Restaurant.
(Overnight in Inishmore at Kilmurvey House)
Day 5 Fri, Sep 17: Aran Islands; Clifden (B)
After an early breakfast, we enjoy a discussion with Phil on “Celtic
Wisdom and the Custom of “Anam Cara” (Soul Friends), and The Spiritual Landscape
of Ireland”. After some contemplative time, we begin a fun-filled morning with a
traditional pony and trap ride to visit the 5th century dry stone
Beehive Huts which served as pilgrim’s inns for centuries of pilgrims on
turas, the circuit of ancient Ireland. We then meet with special guest, Irish
author and Celtic Christian Spiritual Leader, Dara Molloy who will
discuss the recent ancient Celtic revival. Later in the morning we arrive back
in Kilronan Village to board our ferry from Inishmore Pier to Rossaveal in
County Galway. Upon arrival, we transfer to Clifden, nestled amidst
breathtaking mountain scenery and beautiful rugged coastlines, for some free
time to explore this charming coastal town independently. In the evening, we
gather together once again for a traditional dinner at Foyles Hotel, one of the
last of the classic country inns.
(Overnight in Clifden at Foyles Hotel)
Day 6 Sat, Sep 18: Connemara; Roundstone Village; Ballyconneely; Clifden (B,
L)
Today we take a loop journey along the Sky Road through the rugged and beautiful
coastline of the Connemara region. On our coach ride, Phil will discuss
the Irish Potato Famine, which the Irish actually refer to as “the Great
Hunger”, a heart-wrenching famine which took the lives of up to a million and
led to the emigration of at least another million. Our fist stop is a visit of
the majestic Kylemore Abbey, the monastic home of the Benedictine
Order of Nuns of Ireland. Originally called Kylemore Castle, it was built
between 1863 and 1868 as the private family home of Mitchell Henry, a prominent
and wealthy politician from Manchester, England. The abbey was later founded in
1920 on the castle grounds for nuns who fled Belgium in WWI. Our visit would not
be complete without experiencing the beauty and tranquillity of the gardens.
We then continue on to the luxury castle hotel, Ballynahinch Castle, for
lunch and some free time to wander in this awe-inspiring setting. We will also
take time to journal on “The Holly Longing”, one of the favourite themes of
Irish poet John O’Donohue and to do some sketching of the area.
Our next stop is the charming village of Roundstone where we visit with
Master Bodhran Maker, Malachy Kearns at his Roundstone Music and
Crafts shop to witness the art of Bodrhan making. Malachy will share with us
the story and history of the Bodhran, where its name came from, and why its
playing style is “the cleverest idea in the world of manual percussion”. We
continue our journey along the coast to reach Ballyconneely, an area with
some of the most unspoilt and tranquil countryside in all of Ireland. Here we
will make a quick stop on Coral Strand at Derrygimla for an invigorating
breath of fresh sea air and more time for journaling or sketching. We return to
Clifden later in the afternoon to enjoy some independent time at your
leisure and an optional Pub Crawl later in the evening.
(Overnight in Clifden at Foyles Hotel)
Day 7 Sun, Sep 19: Westport; Achill Island; Clifden (B, D)
This morning we fill up on a hearty Irish breakfast in preparation for a full
active day in Westport, County Mayo, followed by a lecture with Phil on
“The Labyrinth of Every Pilgrimage and Significant Journey”. The talk and
breakfast will help us prepare for our ½ hour climb up Croagh Patrick,
St. Patrick’s mystic mountain. Lying in an area steeped in ancient history, the
climb up the mountain offers magnificent views of Clew Bay and the surrounding
Mayo countryside from all stages of ascent. This holy site is renowned for its
Patrician Pilgrimage in honour of St. Patrick, Ireland’s patron saint who, as
legend states, spent 40 days on the mountain fasting and praying for the
salvation of the Irish. The mountain, which dates back to 3000 BC, is also
revered as one of the earliest pagan sites of worship. The tradition of
pilgrimage here spans back over 5000 years from the Stone Age to the present day
without interruption. After an exhilarating climb and discussion with
Phil about St. Patrick and the tradition of pilgrimage, we stop in town where
you can enjoy lunch at one of the many medieval pubs and restaurants or take
some time for strolling and shopping. We then make our way to Achill Island
off the coast of Mayo to visit Kildamhnait Castle, the 15th century tower
belonging to the O’Malley Clan and the famous Sea Captain and Pirate, Gracie
O’Malley. Later in the afternoon, we return to Clifden for a
well-deserved break and an evening meal at Mitchell’s Restaurant.
(Overnight in Clifden at Foyles Hotel)
Day 8 Mon, Sep 20: Galway City (B)
This morning we check out of our hotel after another lovely breakfast and
discussion on “The Traditional Role of Blessings in Irish Culture and
Pilgrimage”, which as O’Donohue writes, “help awaken and grace the beauty of the
heart’s landscape”. We then transfer to Galway City and check into the
Harbour Hotel which is in walking distance from the city centre and shopping
area. Enjoy the afternoon at your leisure to explore this medieval city rich in
history and culture. Considered Ireland’s “Cultural Heart”, the city is known
for its vibrant festivals, celebrations, and art scene and has much to offer
from colourful shops and pub fronts, to museums and art centres, as well as
beautiful parks and walking trails.
(Overnight Galway City at the Harbour Hotel)
Day 9 Tue, Sep 21: Shannonbridge; Dublin (B)
We check out after breakfast and leave Galway to make our way to Dublin, briefly
stopping en route in Shannonbridge, which gets its name from the bridge
connecting County Offaly and County Roscommon, over the River Shannon. Nearby,
we visit the monastery of Clomacnoise and briefly discuss “How the Irish
Saved Civilization” at monasteries where monks copied old Greek and Roman
manuscripts. Founded in 545 by Saint Ciaran, Clomacnoise as built in a very
strategic location which helped it become a major centre of religion, education,
craftsmanship and trade. It became the most famous monastery in Ireland, being
visited by scholars from all over Europe, and was the virtual centre of
Ireland’s own civilization for 15 centuries. We then continue our journey to
Dublin, the largest city and capital of Ireland. We check into our hotel to
rest and freshen up and then enjoy the evening at your leisure or join us for an
optional Pub Crawl.
(Overnight in Dublin at Hotel Charlemont)
Day 10 Wed, Sep 22: Dublin; Newgrange (B, D)
After a full Irish breakfast, enjoy a discussion on “The Arrival Stage of
Pilgrimage”. During our discussion, Phil will also explain the importance of
ancient burial sites and the role of belief in metempsychosis. We then visit the
UNESCO World Heritage site of Newgrange, one of the most prehistoric sites of
the world and the most famous prehistoric site in Ireland. Newgrange was
built between 3300 BC and 2900 BC, making it over 500 years older than the Great
Pyramid at Giza. The site was built to coincide with seasonal changes so that at
dawn on the day of the winter solstice, a narrow beam of light penetrates the
roof-box and reaches the floor of a chamber, gradually extending to the rear of
a long passageway. As the sun continues to rise higher and higher, the beam of
light expands to illuminate the entire room for a brief period of time. While
archaeologists have classified Newgrange as a passage tomb, it is more fitting,
however, to classify it as an ancient temple for it was a place of astrological,
spiritual, religious and ceremonial, importance.
As we make our way back to Dublin later in the day, we make a brief stop at the
Hill of Tara, an archaeological complex which acted as a sacral site for
Kingship rituals and contains many ancient monuments. Once back in Dublin, you
are free to enjoy the day at your leisure to visit Dublin Castle, Guinness
Storehouse, the Jameson Whiskey Distillery, St. Michans Church, St. Patrick’s
Cathedral and more!
(Overnight in Dublin at Hotel Charlemont)
Day 11 Thu, Sep 23: Dublin (B, D)
This morning we enjoy our final discussion with Phil, “Bringing Back the
Boon”, where we will all share our experiences, describe the treasures we will
be bringing back, and discuss how to keep our journey alive well after our
return. Afterwards, we visit Trinity College at the University of
Dublin which was founded in 1592 and is the oldest University in Ireland.
Trinity is one of Ireland’s leading historical sites attracting over half a
million visitors each year. The main heritage attraction is The Book of Kells, a
richly decorated text book written in 800 AD. Also wonderful to see is the
beautiful Old Library at Trinity College. Enjoy the remainder of the day to take
in more of the sights and sounds of Dublin. Shop at the many fine shops for
gifts and treasures, visit the National Museums or Gallery, or simply stroll
throughout the city admiring the architecture and historical sites. In the
evening we gather for our final Farewell Dinner to recount our fondest
memories of Ireland with our new Anam Cara.
(Overnight in Dublin at Hotel Charlemont)
Day 12 Fri, Sep 24: Depart Dublin (B)
Today we bid our farewells to our new found friends and the beautiful “Land of
Eire”. As the old Irish blessing goes, “May the road rise up to meet you. May
the wind always be at your back. May the sun shine warm upon your face, and
rains fall soft upon your fields. And until we meet again, may God hold you in
the palm of His hand.”
(B = Breakfast; L = Lunch; D = Dinner)
NOTE: This itinerary subject to change due to conditions beyond our control.
Tour Inclusions & Price
Tour Includes:
• 11 nights accommodation at some of Ireland’s finest 3 and 4 star hotels
• Arrival and Departure Transfers
• Daily Breakfasts, 1 Lunch and 5 Dinners
• Private Luxury Coach Transportation
• Professional Driver/Guide Throughout
• Ferry to Aran Islands
• Hotel Taxes & Service Charges
• Admission to all sites as per itinerary
• All guide services as per itinerary
Special Added Features:
• Travel with Author, Teacher and Filmmaker, Phil Cousineau
• Daily Lectures, Discussions and Poetry Readings
• Traditional Irish Entertainment
• Evening Pub Crawls
• Special Guest Speakers, P.J. Curtis and Dara Molloy
• Pony & Trap Tour of Aran Islands
• Bodhran Drum-Making Demonstration at Roundstone Music and Crafts with Master
Bodhran Maker, Malachy Kearns
Tour does not include:
• Airfare to Ireland
• Cancellation & Medical Insurance (ask us for a quote if you are Canadian)
• Meals and drinks not included, as indicated in the itinerary
• Cost to obtain valid passport
• Any items of a personal nature such as laundry, drinks and telephone calls.
Any item that is not specifically detailed on our website or in the final trip
itinerary
Tour Price
Per Person Single Supplement
USD $3399.00 USD $600.00
Note: Gratuities/Tips to cover your driver/guide, baggage handling etc, is not
included. You will need to bring approx. Euro 60-70 for this purpose. Gratuities
are included for the meals provided on the trip.
Note: The single supplement is ONLY for those who would like to secure a private
room throughout the tour, at the indicated additional price. If you are not
traveling with anyone you know and would like to share a room, we will be happy
to work to find you a suitable roommate. Per our Terms and Conditions,
registration for the tour will be held open until two weeks before the departure
date in order to try to match everyone with a roommate. If by that date we have
not been able to match you with a suitable roommate, you will be responsible to
pay for the single supplement. An early registration will facilitate this
process.
Sacred Earth Journeys, Ste 220 - 133 E. 8th Ave. Vancouver,
B.C. V5T 1R8 Canada
Tel: (604) 874-7922, Toll Free 1-877-874-7922 www.sacredearthjourneys.ca