Join mythologist, author, and filmmaker Phil Cousineau on an odyssey through Greece’s timeless myths and breathtaking beauty.
Take a journey three thousand years back in time to the roots of classical Greece and forward to the modern Mediterranean of magnificent land and seascapes, splendid museums, and sublime cuisine, as we explore the myriad mysteries of the Glory that was and is Greece. If you have ever wondered about how and why a passion for art, beauty, truth, and freedom all arose during the few short years of the Age of Pericles and continues to influence us today, then this tour is for you. An exhilarating odyssey awaits you across Homer’s legendary "wine-dark sea" in the land of ancient Greek gods and goddesses, heroes and heroines, and sublime world heritage sites. READ MORE
Phil Cousineau is a writer, teacher, independent scholar, documentary filmmaker, travel leader, storyteller and author of over 40 books including the national best-seller The Art of Pilgrimage, The Book of Roads, and Stoking the Creative Fires, winner of the Book of the Year Award from “Spirituality & Health Magazine.”
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Tour Description
Special Offer! For those who register before March 15, we will send a free copy of Phil's award-winning book The Art of Pilgrimage, which is now available in over a dozen languages, and is now in its 15th printing. Phil will gladly autograph the book as well. The great Irish mystic-poet-monk John O'Donohue, author of Anam Cara, wrote, "Of all the books I've ever read about pilgrimage, this is the most poetic, personal, and timely.", and Deepak Chopra writes: "The Art of Pilgrimage--now that's a classic book about travel."
Five hundred years before the modern era, in a small settlement on the far western border of the known world, a mysterious power was working its magic. Something unprecedented had taken root in the hearts and minds of those who had settled there, people we now call Greeks. What unfolded over the next century influenced not only their time but ours, bringing about the birth of democracy, new codes of law, fresh standards in the arts and literature, profound explorations in spiritual life, and above all the relentless passion for freedom. This short-lived but staggering flowering of genius in art and science, brought “something completely new into the world,” as classicist Edith Hamilton wrote, forging the spirit of the very world we inhabit today. “We think and feel differently because of their genius.” And yet the roots of what was created in the arts and sciences, philosophy and mathematics, sports, law, and the passion for independence, remains a mystery to historians, scholars, poets, and travelers alike. While the Greek Mysteries is a venerable description for the classical world’s most sacred—and secret—ceremonies at the sanctuary at Eleusis, the numinous phrase also refers to those questions and enigmas that continue to fascinate us all these centuries later, as we celebrate the very cornerstone of the western world.
Join us in the fall of 2025 for our exploration of the Greek Mysteries. Relive the ancient stories and timeless art that reveals the roots of Western civilization, woven together with the vibrant culture and hospitality of contemporary Greek people. Our time together will combine daily discussions, conversations, contemplative time, museum and site visits, and special guest appearances by modern Greek scholars, artists, and poets.
Our journey begins in Thessaloniki and Vergina in the northern reaches of Macedonia, where we encounter the magnificent and recently restored Royal Palace and theater of Philip II, including the very spot where Alexander the Great was crowned, and the spectacular new Polycentric complex of museums dedicated to the Macedonian royalty—and the mysterious origins of Greek empire.
We continue on to the charming medieval village Metsovo to have a traditional Greek barbecue, and then to Nicopolis, capital city of Epirus, and site of Octavian’s victory in the Battle of Atrium, his pivotal naval victory over Antony and Cleopatra, in 31 CE.
Near Preveza we will explore one of the least visited but most significant sites in Greece, the Nekromanteion of Acheron, the magical location of Homer’s celebrated entrance to the Underworld. According to ancient literary sources, on the advice of Circe, Odysseus descended here to gain advice from the blind seer Tiresias about how to return to his beloved home on Ithaka. During classical times and up through the Middle Ages, it became a Temple of Necromancy dedicated to Hades and Persephone, where an Oracle led elaborately staged rituals designed to celebrate the Mysteries of Love, Death, and Rebirth. We will lunch at a beautiful taverna that rests near the aquamarine beauty of the legendary Acheron River.
On Odysseus and Penelope’s island kingdom of Ithaka we will visit the reputed ruins of their Mycenaen Age palace, as well as small local museums that house wonders of the excavations. Each day we will discuss with local scholars one of the great mysteries of antiquity, the “Homeric Question,” about the controversial identity of the great poet, as well as the indisputable and undying influence of The Odyssey and the Iliad. For one of the finest panoramic views in all of Greece, we will take the coach up to the Monastery of Panagia Eleousa, where we will enjoy a catered traditional Greek lunch.
Continuing on with our journey, we travel to the seaport town of Nafplion, we find cobblestone streets, Venetian balconies, picturesque cafés and fortresses. At Epidaurus, we will explore another aspect of the Greek Mysteries, the healing rituals at Asklepios’ sanctuary, including dream therapy at the recently restored Tholos, and the performance of healing dramas at the colossal theater, which is still used for concerts today. At the Sanctuary of Eleusis, we will learn from an eminent local archaeologist about the ancient secret rites and initiation ceremonies and discuss the role of the goddess in Greek mythology as well as the role of ritual in antiquity.
At the Temple of Apollo in Delphi, we will participate in one of the greatest pilgrimages in all the world, a visit to the Greek Oracle, by wending our way up the Sacred Way in silence and blessing ourselves at the sacred Castalian Spring. Then in the spirit of the ancient pilgrims, we too shall ask a probing question in hopes of what the scholar Alexander Eliot described as "a personal answer to a universal question."
In Athens, we will visit the National Archaeological Museum, which truly embodies the Greek origins of the word itself, as the “House of the Muses.” Here we will encounter artifacts from Greek prehistory to late antiquity. Some of the magnificent items on display include the much-celebrated Mask of Agamemnon, the Bronze Jockey of Artemision, the Bust of the Minotaur, the marble sculpture of Aphrodite, Pan, and Eros, and the Antikythera Mechanism, which some regard as the world’s first computer.
A unique feature of our journey will feature our trusty leader, Phil Cousineau’s innovative style of “The Long Conversation.” Each day will be highlighted by talks, guest lectures, traditional Greek music, poetry, and group discussion that are designed to explore the constant striving for clarity, warmth, and excellence.
We welcome you to join us on this mystical journey to reconnect with the power of the ancient gods and goddesses and be graced with all the magic and fascination this land has to offer.
We begin our tour in the northern province of Macedonia, so we might avail ourselves of the glorious and innovative new museums of Vergina, an hour’s coach ride away, home to Philip II, and the site of Alexander the Great’s crowning as king, in 336 BCE.
Thessaloniki itself is a thriving port city, on the Thermaic Gulf of the Aegean Sea, which features archaeological wonders stretching from Roman times to Byzantine and Ottoman history. Highlights include the ruins of Roman Emperor Galerius’ 4th-century palace include the Rotunda that has been both a church and a mosque. The rebuilt 20th-century city has a modern European layout, revolving around the iconic White Tower. After you are picked up at the airport, you will be taken to our hotel and have ample time to refresh yourselves before we enjoy our Opening Dinner at Hamodrakas, founded in 1926, the oldest restaurant in the city. By doing so, we will welcome each to Greece, and also honor Homer himself, who wrote that his fellow Greeks loved banquets and celebrating life! Opa!
(Overnight in Thessaloniki at City Hotel or similar)
This morning, we launch into our tour with the first of a series of innovative discussions inspired by Phil Cousineau’s popular Long Conversations, which are offered every day with the intention of orienting ourselves with the ancient Greek world to ensure we glean the most out of our time together. These exhilarating discussions are based on your tour leader’s eight years of work with the mythologist Joseph Campbell and informed by “The Hero’s Journey”, their highly influential film and book.
Afterwards, we begin our mythic exploration with a walking tour of this ancient capital of Macedonia, followed by a coach tour that will feature breathtaking views of Thessaloniki. We will be joined by our expert local guide who will take us on a panoramic drive around the city that includes the White Tower, the Galerius Arch, the stunning Rotunda monument, and the historic Old Town (Ano Poli) with its impressive City Walls, and a special stop at the Agios Demetrius Byzantine church. A highlight will be the underground ancient "Crypt," where Saint Demetrius was imprisoned before his martyrdom in 303 A.D., rediscovered in 1917 and beautifully restored in 1988. At the Archaeological Museum, you will enjoy Macedonian artifacts spanning from the Archaic and Classical periods through Hellenistic times and into Roman rule, and other captivating pieces from throughout Macedonia that are sure to stir your mythic imagination.
Free afternoon for wandering, shopping, contemplating, journaling, and reveling in the beauty that is Greece. You’re welcome to join a lively group discussion about “The Art of Travel,” at Ouzeri Tsinari, a favorite local café, on one of the colorful cobblestone streets of Thessaloniki’s beautifully restored Old Town.
Dinner on your own, leaving you the freedom to discover a hidden gem or enjoy a quiet meal reflecting on the day’s experiences.
(Overnight in Thessaloniki at City Hotel or similar)
Following our hotel breakfast, we will engage in the first of our daily Long Conversations. This morning, we will discuss the twenty-four hundred long mystery of how the small kingdom of Macedonia inspired the mighty dream of empire in the mind of Philip II, his wife Queen Olympias, and their titanically ambitious son Alexander. Our conversation will help orient us for our full day of exploration at Philip’s Royal Capitol of Vergina (ancient Aigai), which had vanished for two thousand years before its rediscovery by Professor Manolis Andronikos, in 1977, after forty years of excavations. Recently, Vergina was named a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Upon arrival, our local guide will lead us to the monumental Palace of Aigai, which was ceremonially reopened by Prime Minister Kyriakos Mitsotakis, in January 2024, after a sixteen-year restoration. After our visit, we will enjoy a brief visit to a beautiful outdoor taverna, then proceed to the Underground Museum Shell of Vergina, situated in the Great Tumulus (burial mound), in the ancient royal necropolis. Surely, this is one of the of the most mysteriously impressive museums in the world, featuring the king’s bronze breastplate, chryselephantine shield and copper greaves, gold diadems, silver vessels, bronze spears. Other highlights include a spectacular preserved mural of the Abduction of Persephone by Hades, and the now iconic solid Gold Larnax, or sepulchral ash-chest, decorated with a twelve-ray star, which has become the symbol of modern Macedonia.
Time permitting, our final stop of the day will be to the newly opened Polycentric Museum of Aigai, a gloriously airy building which houses many artifacts, startlingly displayed, from the excavated royal tombs.
Free evening and optional open discussion back in Thessaloniki.
(Overnight in Thessaloniki at City Hotel or similar)
After breakfast, we have a brief Long Conversation, to aid us in orienting our adventures, about the intriguing role of Greek Stoic philosophy in the perpetually violent and astonishingly inventive world of Ancient Greece and Rome. The paradox is personified and explored in the soulful teachings of such philosophers as Epictetus, Cicero, Porcia Catonis, and Marcus Aurelius, and his daughter Annia Faustina Minor.
We depart from Thessaloniki at 10 am and drive on the modern A2 highway, the “Egnatia Odos,” or Old Roman Road, to Nicopolis, the City of Victory, found by Octavian, later known as the Roman Emperor Augustus. Along the way we will stop at Metsovo, one of the most beloved traditional mountain villages in Greece, known for its beautifully painted houses, woven textiles, wood carving, potent red Averoff wine, psistaries, or barbecue grill houses. We will happily have a traditional Greek lunch (included in tour price) in this charming medieval village.
Depart from Metsovo at around 2 pm and arrive to Nicopolis at around 5pm.
We then take our coach to Nicopolis, "the Victory City," after the goddess Nike, where the great Epictetus founded his own school of Stoic philosophy. Nicopolis was founded in 29 BCE to commemorate the nearby Battle of Actium, where Octavian's army overwhelmed Cleopatra and Marc Antony, and is considered the largest ancient city, size-wise, in all of Greece.
Arriving at twilight will be providential for pilgrims like us as we take in the glorious ruins, including the Ancient Roman Gates, the ruins of the Christian Basilica with its still intact mosaic floors, the massive nearby Roman aqueduct, and the ongoing restoration of the ancient Theater.
Dinner on own, allowing time to explore the local cuisine or reflect on the day's journey amidst the charming ambiance of the town.
(Overnight in Preveza at Preveza City Comfort Hotel or similar)
After breakfast we will have a discussion about the mythopoetics of many female scholars and authors, from Emily Wilson to Madeline Miller, which brings the women and goddesses to the forefront of Homer’s storytelling and offers a necessary reassessment of Greek history.
From Preveza we drive through the region of Epirus to visit the Nekromanteion of Acheron, a candidate for both the strangest ancient site in Greece and most moving of Homeric sites. For millennia, this temple marked the entrance to Hades, where a religious cult developed to celebrate the mysteries of Hades and Persephone. Inspired by Circe’s advice to Odysseus to visit the Underworld, pilgrims gathered here from all over the ancient world to honor the recently the mysteries of life, death and rebirth. The complex ceremonies were led by the resident Oracle of the Dead who led the initiates down into subterranean chambers, where they were ritually instructed about how to communicate with loved ones who had passed to the next world, and how to go on living with their grief. While at the Sanctuary, we will read from the immortal passages from Homer and undergo our own ritual inside the ruins of the ancient temple to bring the Mysteries alive. Phil will also read passages from his book The Lost Notebooks of Sisyphus, which take place here.
Afterwards our visit to the Underworld, we venture to the Acheron River itself, a startlingly beautiful river that is fifty shades of turquoise, where we will have some quiet time to contemplate our adventures and soak our feet and perhaps make some entries in our travel journals. Later, we will enjoy lunch (at own expense), at either the cafe at the Acheron Springs or at a taverna in Ammoudia, depending on the flow of the day. Bring proper shoes and an extra set of clothes for walking in the river today. You will love it!
(Overnight in Preveza at Preveza City Comfort Hotel or similar)
After our traditional Greek breakfast, we will offer our daily Long Conversation, in the meeting room of our hotel in Preveza, an invigorating discussion about the Homeric Mysteries, revolving around one of Homer’s major themes, home, the going to and leaving of it, the protection and ancient codes of hospitality called xenia.
Around 10 am we embark on the two-hour drive to Astakos Port, where we will catch a four-hour ferry to Pisaetos harbour, Ithaka, the island of Odysseus and Penelope. En route, we recommend you use the time we cross the “wine-dark sea” to journal or engage in soulful conversation about our journey. Upon arrival, we take our coach to the nearby, breathtakingly beautiful, harbor town of Vathy.
After checking into our hotel, uncannily called the Mentor Hotel (a word coined by Homer in The Odyssey), we will take a gentle half-mile seaside walk to the Mythos Taverna, one of the favorite restaurants for the local people. There we will engage in an open discussion about the importance of initiation, thresholds, and ritual, as illustrated in the timeless tale of Odysseus and Penelope, and the true and startling origins of our word nostalgia, which literally means “the pain of going home.”
Tonight, we will enjoy dinner at a lovely local restaurant (at own expense). Joining us will be our local guide, the archaeologist Spyros Couvaras, and a surprise guest!
(Overnight in Ithaka at the Mentor Hotel or similar)
After breakfast we will craft a group reading of passages in the Odyssey that are set in Ithaka and discuss the way the translations have shape-shifted over the centuries. We will also dare to explore the centuries-long debate about the location of Homer’s Ithaka.
After lunch (included in tour price) we will be guided by Spyros Couvaras, a member of the Odyssean Studies Center to the town square of the beautiful village of Stavros to see a scale model of ancient Ithaka, and the small but important Archaeological Museum of Stavros, where we will see fragments of twelve bronze ceremonial tripods in honour of Odysseus found in the nearby Polis caves. One is famously inscribed: EYXHN ODYCCEI, a reference to the gift of Alcinous, King of Phaeacia, to Odysseus. Then we take a short drive by coach to the reputed ruins of Odysseus and Penelope’s palace that is referred to locally as Homer’s School (Scholio tou Odyssea) which archaeologists date back to the 8th century. Recent excavations, culminating in 2010, have fueled the controversy about the existence of a real Odysseus. After our visit to these haunting ruins, we will visit, weather permitting, the Polis Cave, where the “Odysseus cult” was ritually celebrated for eight centuries. Time permitting, we will end our day’s excursion with a drive to the peak of Pilata Hill to enjoy one of the finest panoramic views in all of Greece. The site overlooks the Three Seas that Homer describes are visible from Odysseus’ Ithaka, and finally to the Homeric “Melanydros Fountain.”
Tonight, we will enjoy dinner at a lovely local seafood restaurant on the harbor (not included).
(Overnight in Ithaka at the Mentor Hotel or similar)
After our Long Conversation, we will visit the Archaeological Museum of Vathy to see its beautiful collection of rare vases from the so-called “Dark Ages,” as well as vases from the Geometric Period, striking Ithakan bronze coins from Classical times, some with the very face of King Odysseus, and a magnificent wooden model of Odysseus’ Palace.
Lunch is included today up at the Kathara Monastery, catered by our old friend Aphrodite, of the Kanenas Taverna in Stavros, including a special invited guest, Jane Cochrane, longtime resident and author of two books about life on Ithaka.
After lunch we will visit the hauntingly beautiful Cave of the Nymphs, where, according to local tradition the Phaecians abandoned Odysseus when he fell asleep. The exciting recent discovery of twelve tripods in the cave recall the mention by Homer of the splendid departure gifts from King Alcinous and Queen Arete of the Phaecians.
Free evening in Vathy for dining, wandering, journaling, reading.
(Overnight in Ithaka at the Mentor Hotel or similar)
Early morning ferry, leaving Homer’s Ithaka at 740 am, arriving in the port of Patras at 12 noon. There where we will reboard our coach for the journey to Nafplion.
En route to our evening’s hotel in Nafplion, you will enjoy an included wine tasting at Achaia Clauss, the oldest winery in Greece, along with an exhilarating at the mythic background of the beloved grape by way of the story of Dionysus, God of the Vine. You’ll have a chance to see the Vineyards, which produce their famous Mavrodafni and visit the winery to learn how their wines are produced. Learn about the art of the barrel maker and the history of the barrels. Finally, return to the Cava, where you will have the opportunity to enjoy their selected fine wines. Afterwards, celebrate during your delicious lunch at a traditional tavern nearby. Opa!
Upon arrival in the beautiful port of Nafplion, recently voted the most beautifully restored city in Greece, we will unpack and enjoy a free evening of sauntering in this seaside village founded in antiquity, a vital port in the Middle Ages, and since the Greek Civil War, renowned for its distinct blend of Venetian, Ottoman, and Greek architecture. Tonight, we will be free to promenade along the ancient harbor and enjoy a traditional dinner (on our own) on the beautifully restored Constitution Square.
(Overnight in Nafplion at Park Hotel Nafplio or similar)
After our traditional Greek breakfast at our Nafplion hotel, we leave the hotel 9:00 am to ensure we arrive at one of the most revered sites in ancient Greece, the Healing Center of Epidaurus, by 10am. En route we will enjoy a wonderful surprise stop on the road between Herakles’ city of Tiryns and Epidaurus, at the mysteriously moving Arkadiko Bridge, the oldest preserved bridge in Europe, which dates back to circa 1300 BCE, in Mycenean times. At Epidaurus, we will be visiting the birthplace of Asclepius, Greek God of Healing, whose caduceus still graces our hospitals and pharmacies. Epidaurus was one of the more than three hundred “Healing Centers” of Ancient Greece and is regarded as the first hospital in the Western world. At this revered sanctuary we will visit the ancient amphitheater, known for its breathtaking acoustics. A high point of our morning visit will be the Tholos, the recently restored Dream Temple, where we discuss the ancient role of dreams, healing, herbs, and the role of ancient oracles in curing the sick and infirm. Afterwards, we will visit the marvel-filled Archaeological Museum of Epidaurus, which contains testimonials by cured patients carved on stone tablets, amulets, and incantations.
Our next stop will be the Citadel of Mycenae, home of King Agamemnon and Queen Clytemnestra, and site of the gathering of ancient Greek (Achaean) kings who decided to go to war against Troy. En route Phil will offer an inspiring presentation of his recent book, Who Stole the Arms of the Venus de Milo? which provides background for understanding the Trojan War. After a traditional Greek lunch in Mycenae, we will make our last stop of the day at the astonishing architectural marvel of the Corinth Canal which connects the Gulf of Corinth with the Saronic Gulf in the Aegean. Begun in the seventh century BCE, then abandoned until the aborted efforts of by the Roman emperor Nero, the massive dig was finally resumed in 1881 and completed in 1893. Afterward, time permitting, we visit Ancient Corinth to learn about its immortal mythical King Sisyphus. There we will have a special visit at the wonderful site of The Apollo Pottery Shop for a private demonstration of traditional Greek pottery making with owner Dumitru Romancius and his son Ratu, who created the vase that inspired the cover of his recent book, The Lost Notebooks of Sisyphus.
(Overnight in Athens at the Hermes Hotel or similar)
After breakfast at our Athens hotel, we will gather for today’s Long Conversation, which will explore the numinous question asked by the ancients who ventured here for over twelve hundred years: “Are You Going to Delphi?” Thus inspired and enthused (both words with roots ancient Greek), we will take our coach north for the two-hour to the Sanctuary of Apollo. Upon arrival, we will walk in meditative silence to the archaeological site, to help orient ourselves for our own symbolic encounter with the Oracle. At the Castilian Springs near the entrance, we will meet our local guide, who will lead us for an hour and provide an overview of the magnificent history of Ancient Delphi, the most revered site in antiquity. Afterwards, we will be granted a few minutes of contemplation at the symbolic entrance to the Temple of Apollo, where the Delphic Oracle resided for over 1200 years, remembered ever since for the inscribed Sayings of the Seven Sages, which were etched into the Temple of Apollo, the most famous being Gnothi Sauton, Know Thyself.
Afterwards, we will have time to explore the Ancient Theater and the excavated stadium. Our visit will be topped off by a visit to the magnificent Archaeological Museum. There is housed what is believed to be the original Omphalos stone, dropped from the heavens by Zeus himself, and Praxiteles’s sublime marble statue of Dionysus.
Lunch at one of Delphi’s traditional cliffside tavernas (at own expense), followed by a free evening in Athens for promenading, shopping, journaling, and philosophizing!
(Overnight in Athens at the Hermes Hotel or similar)
We enjoy a traditional Greek breakfast followed by our Long Conversation on “The Eleusinian Mysteries,” to prepare us for our pilgrimage this morning to the Sanctuary of Eleusis, one of the most mysterious sites in ancient Greece. Here was one of the greatest shrines of antiquity, the site of annual rituals in honor of Demeter, Persephone, and Hades, a dramatic story that was reenacted here for 1500 years, witnessed by thousands of initiates who ventured here under a vow of secrecy.
This morning, we will enjoy what the legendary traveler Dame Rose Macaulay called “the pleasure of ruins,” exploring the reputed Cave of Hades, entrance to the Underworld, the ancient Well of Demeter, and the scattered remains of the Telesterion, the Temple of the Mysteries, where the all-night rituals took place, to celebrate the return of Persephone. After our initiatory exploration, we will walk to the nearby Kykeon Taverna and enjoy a traditional Greek lunch together (at own expense) under an ancient olive tree.
We then board our trusty coach for the return trip to Athens where we will take a guided visit to the National Archaeological Museum, founded at the end of the 19th century to house and protect antiquities from all over Greece, thus displaying their historical, cultural, and artistic value. We will focus on the many artefacts associated with the Homeric epics, such as the golden Mask of Agamemnon, the bust of the Minotaur, and the Aphrodite of Cnidus, and see many of the treasures uncovered by Heinrich Schliemann in Mycenae, the Antikythera Mechanism, considered to be the first computer, the bronze Paris of Troy, and the Aphrodite with Pan and Eros.
Tonight, we will enjoy a free evening and a Farewell Dinner at the oldest cafe in the city, Kafeneio Oraia Ellas, the Beautiful Café, founded in 1839, and which evolved into a popular meeting place for literary pilgrims on the Grand Tour, and for generations of travelers up until modern times. Today this marvelous café features a wonderful small museum on Greek history.
(Overnight in Athens at the Hermes Hotel or similar)
After breakfast we say a fond farewell to our newfound friends and tour leader as our time together in Greece comes to an end. We will travel home with incredible memories and a deeper understanding of the importance of the sites visited and their role of the still mysterious majesty of what the ancients called “The Greek Thing,” the forging of civilization. You will then be transferred to Athens International Airport for onwards flights home.
(B = Breakfast; L = Lunch; D = Dinner)
Note: This itinerary is subject to change due to conditions beyond our control.
